rest in peace lillian bassman

The world lost a great talent today. Photographer Lillian Bassman passed away at the age of 94.

I was so thrilled to have the chance to interview her about 12 years ago. Her work was truly the convergence of art and commerce: Fashion photography to sell and promote garments that seem an afterthought at best and are utterly undistinguishable at times. It's an observation made by National Post writer Nathalie Atkinson, who just reviewed Bassman's latest book, Lillian Bassman Lingerie, in the Saturday paper. It's an observation also made by editors at Harper's Bazaar when Bassman was shooting for the magazine in the '50s and '60s – and the fodder for many disagreements, as she told me. As a longtime magazine editor I considered Bassman's story a cautionary tale. I imagine the editors with advertisers breathing down their long fashionable necks, "Who is this you have photographing my dress. I can't even see it in the photo. How is my customer supposed to recognize it and find it at Saks?" And yet then there is the work – the utterly breathtaking work. Sometimes the art must come first, the commerce will take care of itself.

Bassman's art began with obviously incredible skill communicating with extraordinary models. I don't forget their role. She mastered light to get a shot, but the click of the shutter was far from being the completion of her task. Through darkroom manipulation and, later, Photoshop, Bassman explored every nuance of light, shadow, fabric, shape.

One of the stories Lillian Bassman told me that stuck with me over the years is that the rule of publishing at the time dictated that any model being photographed in lingerie, or any state of undress should have her face partially obscured in the interest of modesty. Look again at these photos. It's fascinating to do so once you know this. I recalled this story reading a post Jane Flanagan did a while back on Faceless photos. They are so dreamy and often a bit sad. And a variation on this idea, I also find Jen Gotch's defaced self portraits haunting.

But back to Lillian Bassman. I leave you with just a few of my favourites from her vast body of work. I just hope someday to own one. Someday.

I turned a version of the one above (notice how the model's neck is extended and chin up in mine) into a silhouette for my former apartment (displayed it with a famous Man Ray portrait of Coco Chanel that also got the silhouette treatment) PS. UGH, I friggin' hate that this was shot with the lamp on - forgive me Lillian Bassman!:

A postcard of this one – the promo for the exhibit which was the occasion for my interview with her – lived on my mantel for a time (notice that the image is flipped for the postcard):

rest in peace Lillian Bassman. Thank you for your art.

designers i admire: jeffrey bilhuber

You guys! I'm back and I'm so appalled to see that it has been officially more than a month since my last post. I think that might be a neglect record. More on me and my blog another day. But for now I must share the reason I've been compelled back to this space: Jeffrey Bilhuber. That's him sitting on the awesomesauce rope stool above. Mr. B is a superstar designer as I'm sure you know. I have all three of his books and love them all for different reasons. Defining Luxury is like a decorating masterclass. The details, the details, the details - not a one missed. His latest, The Way Home, is all about high-style places looking all loose and louche - such inspiration for my styling eye. In a nutshell, here are the things I love about Jeffrey Bilhuber and his design work.

Mr. B never met a wood floor that he didn't want to paint. I so agree. 

In this room I adore the upholstered walls -- always covet upholstered walls. To me they are ultimate decorator luxury. I also love how the sofa is custom made to fill the entire length of this room and how it's layered in front of packed bookshelves. This rooms conjures thoughts of Sunday afternoon napping en famille - one of my favourite pastimes.

Jeffrey Bilhuber uses curtain rods that turn a corner back to the wall. I so much prefer this look. I find finials entirely too fussy and I love the finished look of the drapes wrapping around to meet the wall. 

He uses wicker and rattan furniture in any room in the house. It's such an old school gesture. Love.

He is the owner of a charming little cottage in an East Coast seaside town...just like someone else I know.

He's known for his sophisticated chock-full of decorating urban spaces, but he does country in such a pared down unpretentious way. Just perfect.

There are so many more things I like about his work. These are the biggies. Check him out at bilhuber.com or see the slide show of his adorable Nantucket cottage at architecturaldigest.com.

happy birthday kate!

She's a Capricorn. And today is her 30th birthday. Happy Birthday Kate. Well, last night this is what she wore to the premiere of War Horse in London. So much could be said about the outfit, her birthday, the jewels, the charity etc etc. But I have only three observations to share.

1. Just look at the expressions on those faces. These two are really loving it all and each other. Warms my heart.

2. THE FUTURE KING OF ENGLAND IS CARRYING A GROOVY '70s BIRDCAGE UMBRELLA FOR HIS BRIDE. I've done some digging and looks like it is a bona fide Fulton (holders of the Royal warrant as official umbrella manufacturers for the Queen). Yes, that's right, the Queen has an official umbrella manufacturer, natch.

This little beaut sells for 16 pounds, and is apparently a favourite of the Queen. I guess it's a little like the equivalent of the Popemobile for the Royals - protection that allows maximum visibility. (Though I'm guessing not bulletproof)

Alas, my last observation:

3. She DOESN'T CARE that he's holding the brolly or that she's getting WET. I adore her for this. You know those girls, the ones who think all their powers will vanish if a single drop of rain touches them. They cower and grab their man and hog the brolly and dash into wherever they're headed. Not our Kate. A little drizzle doesn't get her down. She's having a laugh.

Happy Birthday and God bless Catherine, Her Royal Highness Princess William, Duchess of Cambridge, Countess of Strathearn, Baroness Carrickfergus.

(ps. Thanks @RevDaniel for the proper title -- there, that's two blog mentions.)